Cathedral Bells On Off
Brass, Beer, Bells and Belgians – CPB on tour in Antwerp!

Friday 24th August


If brass players gather at an ungodly hour of the morning outside St. John’s Church in Penge, it can only mean one thing – it’s August Bank Holiday and Crystal Palace Band are going on a trip! This year, the band was bound for Antwerp, and as we set off towards Dover and the Channel, beer cafés were researched, and brews were identified that we would want to savour during our time in Belgium.



We breakfasted on the ferry, and only a few hours since departing south east London, we were soon cruising through northern France and into Belgium. In what seemed like no time at all the bus had pulled into the centre of Antwerp, as close as we could get to the hotel, and we were helping to unload all the percussion, instruments, music and suitcases, and drag them the short distance across the cobbles to our hotel, right in the shadow of the cathedral.



We soon discovered that not only is Antwerp’s cathedral the largest in Belgium, it also seemed to be a cathedral that couldn’t bear peace and quiet for longer than about 7 minutes. The pealing carillon of 47 bells was a challenge to ignore, to sleep through, and to perform against, as CPB and the many street artists rapidly found out!



We had the afternoon and evening to do what we wanted, and some rested, some explored, and some sat in the plaza sampling the local delicacies – Kriek, De Koenick, and Stella Artois! Others went in search of one of the world’s most famous beer cafés, the Kulminator, where 20 year old beers were unearthed from the depths of the cellars and served to thirsty band members! Other beers tested included beer fortified with vitamins and irons, trappist beers, and a sour cherry beer which brought interesting grimaces to the faces of our drivers, Pappy and Ray, as they tried to be swallow their choice of tipple!

For most the evening remained relatively civilised, but as the majority of the band lay slumbering in their beds, a lull in the sounds from the cathedral allowed the possible sound of a shopping trolley over cobbles to drift across the city – a shopping trolley whose contents were unloaded by a helpful cornet player and returned to their rightful owner (who had, it is only fair to say been assisted back to the hotel by a helpful euphonium player a few hours before)! Needless to say, the contents of the shopping trolley were conspicuous by their absence at breakfast a few hours later … ! To make up for this absence however, we were joined by a small, friendly, furry face with a long tail! Where? There? Where? On the stair? Over there? Oh yeah!



Saturday 25th August

After breakfast with the special guest appearance, Saturday saw the band loading up a transit van with timpani and tubas, and walking through the streets of Antwerp to the Wapper, a wide street outside Reubens’ House, where we were to play the first of two concerts of the weekend. With crowd pleasers such as Hootenanny the band kept a large audience entertained throughout the two hour concert, before having another free afternoon.



A change to many previous trips, there were no specific outings for the band, and all were able to choose to what they wanted to do. With so many things to see and do in Antwerp, there were bandsmen all over the town, visiting the cathedral, the diamond museum, Reuben’s House, going on an Historic Walk, or simply returning to the plaza to continue experiencing the best of Belgium – beer and the occasional chocolate waffle!

The evening saw many of the party congregating in the main square for a meal, or at least waiting for it! However, nearly two hours after sitting down to order, most at the table had finally received their meal! Over the final few mouthfuls, an unsuspecting busker with a small accordion came over to the tables occupied by the band, and started to play a few tunes. To the delight of the band and others within the plaza, Basil saw the small accordion, and raised his larger one, beginning a rendition of Tulips from Amsterdam … shocked, wrongfooted and completely bemused, the busker had no idea what was happening, but gamely started to try to play along, and was duly rewarded for his efforts … though we think he’ll stay clear of brass bands from now on!



Once Basil’s accordion was out, it was not allowed to be put back in its case, and the cornet was also freed up – renditions from the chairman, principal euphonium, librarian, back row cornets, baritone players and even a Bb bass player followed. The chairman’s playing saw locals dancing in the plaza, and inviting back row cornet player Kirsty to join in – and brought the musicality out in a harmless harmonica playing homeless guy, who joined in for a couple of numbers. Hen parties and stag groups added a bit of sparkle to the occasion, and passers by certainly seemed to enjoy the free entertainment! Eventually though the fun had to stop in the plaza as the restaurants closed and the bemused staff went home to bed – although not all members of CPB felt their beds beckoning, but instead turned their minds to beer and in some cases, karaoke …

Sunday 26th August

Sunday morning saw surprising few hangovers, though the percussion section seemed a little muted and was seen to swallow a couple of paracetemol! Other hangovers were better hidden from the band, but the author can issue a warning that sometimes you can’t hide a hangover from your roommate, no matter how well you can hide it from everyone else… ?

The streets of Antwerp looked different on Sunday morning than they had the previous couple of days. There was something more cultural in the air … not only the Antwerp Culture Market, bringing together artists, musical groups, museum curators and other cultural types to stalls celebrating Belgian culture, but the rather surprising sound of a pipe band could also be heard floating through the avenues and alleyways! Little did we know when we set off from Penge that we would meet the ‘Auld Enemie’ on the trip! However after they had Highland Flung themselves a couple of times outside the Cathedral, the band marched off, kilts a-fluttering in the breeze, and we were not forced to play menacingly at them to defend our concert space!

We played a second concert outside Reubens’ house, and for the second half were joined by Paul Smith's sister in law Vivianne Staplehurst who had helped to orchestrate the band’s visit to Antwerp. To thank her in true CPB style, Mike G surprised Viv by passing her the baton during Hootenanny and leaving her to conduct the band! Great fun had by all, and the audience seemed to appreciate the visiting conductor!!

The afternoon was again free for the band to pursue their own interests, and again, there were a few people who felt that the plaza with its chocolates, waffles, people watching and liquid refreshment was the best place to be. Others explored the stalls which populated most streets in the historic centre of the city, to pick up tips on culture and the occasional freebie!

The evening saw virtually the whole band seated in the restaurant outside the hotel for the last supper of the trip. Steaks, conversation, wine and beer were flowing, and not even a persistent busking fiddle player could dampen spirits – and we managed to get him to leave without setting Basil on him!!



Unfortunately the restaurant had to close its doors at some point, and the band parted ways – some to retire gracefully to bed, some to retire less gracefully to an Irish bar around the corner, and some to retire disgracefully to the karaoke bar to sing songs (and guitar solos) into the wee small hours …

Monday 27th August

The band which gathered outside the hotel on Monday morning to load and board the coach was again roughly divided into three groups – some who felt fine and were sympathetic towards/amused by those who were suffering, some who felt tired and rough but whose hangovers were manageable, and some who were … still drunk. [Ok, only one who was still drunk, but to make it seem fairer we’ll say some! Ed.] All were loaded onto the coach, regardless of condition, and the decision was made to visit Oostende before returning to Calais, Dover and Penge. The band was lucky enough to have five or six hours in beautiful sunshine to explore the town and beaches of Oostende – a very attractive town with plenty of attractions – waffles, beaches, and bicycles made for 7!



The highlight of the day for some was watching bass player Richard wade his way through the biggest bucket of tomato sauce covered seafood that has ever been seen on one of these trips!! Half a lobster, numerous whelks, at least five langoustines and several wet wipes later, a still vaguely tomato-saucy Richard could be seen slumbering on the beach, conserving energy to allow for digestion to take place! We’re not sure how long it was before he could face the thought of food again … !!

By the late afternoon, we had to get back on the coach to start our final trip back, and the short coach trip saw the presentation of the Fourth Annual Crystal Palace Band Trip Awards – for winners click here! The final prize was awarded as we pulled into the port of Calais, and the happy band, clutching their goodies, poured out of the coach onto the ferry for a few last minute beers, wines and games of cards. And as always, the conversation started to turn to next year’s trip and the burning questions were asked: Where we would go? Who would we see? Who would win what award?

Tune in next year to find out the answers!!


Click for 2007 Awards: